Frequently Asked
Questions
Real answers to the questions we hear every day from homeowners. If yours isn't here, call us.
Clogged Drains & Sewer Problems
My kitchen sink drains slow. Should I just pour drain cleaner down it?
We'd skip the chemical drain cleaner. It generates heat that softens PVC, pits older metal pipe, and it usually burns a narrow channel through the clog instead of clearing it, so the backup returns in a few weeks. Slow kitchen sinks are almost always grease and food waste packed into the P-trap or the branch line behind the wall. We clear the line with a drain machine or hydro jetting so it stays clear. See our drain cleaning page, or call (555) 123-4567.
Why does my toilet keep clogging?
A toilet that clogs over and over usually has a partial blockage stuck in its trap, a problem further down the drain line, or it's an early low-flow model that never flushed well to begin with. So-called flushable wipes are the other big culprit (they don't break down, they mat together in the line). If you're reaching for the plunger every week, stop plunging and let us find the real cause. See clogged toilet repair for what we check.
Every drain in the house is backing up at once. What does that mean?
Multiple drains backing up at the same time points to your main sewer line, not any single fixture. The lowest drains show it first: a floor drain or tub fills with gray water when you run the washing machine or flush upstairs. Stop running water and call us at (555) 123-4567. We run a camera through the line to find the blockage (tree roots in older clay laterals are the most common cause here) and show you exactly what sewer line repair it needs, if any.
My drains gurgle after I run water. Is that a problem?
Gurgling means air is getting pulled through the water seal in a P-trap, and that's worth checking out. The usual causes are a partial clog forming downstream or a blocked vent stack (the pipe through your roof that lets the drain system breathe). Birds' nests and leaves block vents more often than people expect. Caught early it's a quick fix; ignored, it turns into a full backup or a sewer smell in the house.
Toilets, Faucets & Fixtures
My toilet runs every few minutes. What's wrong?
A toilet that runs on its own almost always has a flapper that no longer seals or a fill valve that won't shut off. Water seeps from the tank into the bowl, the tank level drops, and the fill valve kicks back on. It sounds minor, but a running toilet can waste 200 gallons a day, which shows up on your water bill fast. Both parts are inexpensive and quick for us to swap.
There's water around the base of my toilet. Is that serious?
Yes, take it seriously. The most common cause is a wax ring that lost its seal, and it weeps at the toilet base every time you flush. That water doesn't just sit on the tile, it soaks into the subfloor where you can't see the damage building. Stop using that toilet and call us at (555) 123-4567. Resetting a toilet on a new wax ring is a same-day job when the subfloor is still sound.
Why does my faucet still drip when it's shut off tight?
A dripping faucet has a worn washer, cartridge, or O-ring inside the valve, and no amount of extra muscle on the handle will fix it. Cranking harder actually grinds the worn part into the valve seat and makes the repair bigger. One drip per second wastes about 3,000 gallons a year. We rebuild the valve or, if the faucet is at the end of its life, handle the fixture replacement.
Water Heaters
How long should my water heater last?
A standard tank water heater lasts 8 to 12 years; tankless units typically run 15 to 20. Hard water shortens those numbers because scale builds up on the bottom of the tank and the anode rod (the sacrificial part that protects the tank from rust) gets eaten up sooner. If your tank is past 10 years old, it's smart to price a replacement before it fails on its own schedule, which is usually a weekend.
My water heater pops and rumbles. What is that noise?
That popping is sediment. Minerals settle out of the water and form a layer on the bottom of the tank, water gets trapped underneath, and it boils up through the sediment like a percolator. A tank flush clears it if you catch it early. Left alone, the sediment layer forces the burner to overwork the bottom of the tank and shortens the unit's life.
Why does my hot water run out so fast?
The usual culprits are sediment taking up space in the tank, a broken dip tube letting cold water mix in at the top, or a failed lower element on an electric unit. Each one shrinks how much truly hot water the tank can deliver. If the unit checks out fine and your household has simply outgrown it, a bigger tank or a tankless unit (endless hot water, no tank to empty) is the fix. We test before we recommend anything.
Should I repair or replace my water heater?
If the tank itself is leaking, replace it; there is no repair for a rusted-through tank. For everything else, age decides it: thermocouples, elements, and valves are worth repairing on a unit under 8 years old, but putting a repair into a 12-year-old tank rarely pays off. We'll give you the repair price and the replacement price side by side and let you choose.
What temperature should my water heater be set at?
120 degrees is the setting we recommend for most homes. Hotter than that scalds fast (130-degree water can burn skin in under 30 seconds) and wastes energy keeping the tank hot around the clock. If you're not getting comfortable showers at 120, that usually points to a problem inside the unit, not a need to crank the dial. Call us at (555) 123-4567 and we'll check it.
Leaks & Water Pressure
My water bill jumped but I can't find a leak. What should I do?
Start at your water meter: shut off every fixture in the house, then watch the small leak indicator on the meter face. If it's moving, water is escaping somewhere, and the usual hidden suspects are a silently running toilet, an irrigation line, or a slab leak under the foundation. Our leak detection equipment finds the spot without opening up walls or floors on a guess. Call (555) 123-4567 and we'll track it down.
Why is my water pressure suddenly low?
Whole-house pressure loss usually traces to a failing pressure-reducing valve, a main shut-off valve that isn't fully open, or hard-water scale narrowing the pipes over time. If it's just one faucet, clean the aerator screen first (a two-minute job). Pressure-reducing valves wear out in 10 to 15 years, and a bad one can also swing the other way and over-pressurize your pipes, so it's worth testing rather than guessing.
Where is my main water shut-off valve?
In most homes it's where the water line enters the house: along a basement or crawl-space wall, in the garage, or in a covered box near the street. Find it before you need it, and put a tag on it so anyone in the house can find it too. When a pipe lets go, every minute it runs puts gallons of water on your floor, and the shut-off is the only thing that stops it.
Plumbing Emergencies
A pipe just burst. What do I do right now?
Shut off the main water valve first, then open the lowest faucet in the house to drain the lines down. If water reached outlets or your electrical panel, kill the power to that area before you step in. Then call us at (555) 123-4567 for emergency repair. The faster the water stops, the smaller the cleanup bill.
What counts as a plumbing emergency?
Anything actively putting water or sewage where it shouldn't be: a burst pipe, sewage backing up into the house, a water heater leaking from the tank, or no water to the whole home. Those can't wait. A dripping faucet or one slow drain can usually hold until normal hours, and we'll tell you that on the phone rather than charge an emergency rate for a non-emergency.
Do you offer after-hours emergency service?
Yes. We dispatch emergency repairs outside of normal business hours, including evenings, weekends, and holidays. Call (555) 123-4567 and follow the prompts for emergency service. We typically get a plumber out within 1-2 hours.
Pricing, Estimates & Financing
How do you price your work?
Flat-rate, quoted before we start: you approve the exact price, not an hourly meter. A standard trip charge covers getting a licensed plumber to your door and diagnosing the problem. Costs vary with access and parts (a water heater in an attic takes longer to swap than one in a garage), which is why we quote after we've seen the job instead of guessing over the phone.
Do you provide free estimates?
Free estimates for new installations and replacements, yes. For repairs, a standard trip charge applies which covers the plumber's visit and diagnosis. If we do the repair, we'll go over pricing before any work starts.
Do you offer financing?
Yes. We partner with trusted providers to offer flexible financing options, including sample plans like 12 months at 0% interest or 60 months at 7.99% APR. Apply online or call us at (555) 123-4567 and we'll walk you through it.
Licensing & Hiring a Plumber
Are you licensed and insured?
Yes. Summit Plumbing holds State Plumbing License #000000, and the company has been family-owned since 1985. Every job is backed by liability insurance and a satisfaction guarantee, and our plumbers are background-checked before they ever knock on your door.
Does hiring a licensed plumber really matter?
It matters most on the jobs you can't see going wrong: gas lines, water heaters, and anything behind a wall. A license means the work meets code, permits get pulled when the job requires them, and there's accountability if something fails. Unpermitted water heater swaps are a classic example, they surface at the home inspection when you sell, and insurance can deny a claim tied to unlicensed work.
Maintenance & Our Company
Do you offer maintenance plans?
Yes. Our maintenance plans include an annual whole-home plumbing inspection, a water heater flush, priority scheduling, and discounts on repairs. Catching a weeping valve or a corroding supply line early is a lot cheaper than the flood it turns into. Call (555) 123-4567 or visit the maintenance plans page for details.
What areas do you serve?
We cover Springfield and the surrounding region: Riverton, Lakeside, Cedar Grove, Maplewood, Fairview, and nearby communities. Use our zip code checker to confirm we serve your area.
Still Have Questions?
Give us a call at (555) 123-4567 or visit our contact page. We've been answering our neighbors' plumbing questions since 1985.